• Tips for using
  Water Based Stains
  
  
• Tips for using
  Oil Based Stains

• Supplies needed
• Surface preparation
• Helpful staining tips
• Application of stains
• Drying time of stains
• Buffing stains
• Application of top coats
  

• Drying time of top coats
• Buffing top coats
• Cure time
• Helpful top coat tips
• Cool stuff worth knowing
• Maintenance

Supplies Needed

1. Clean rags and paper towels
2. Foam brushes and latex paint pad applicator
3. #100 or #120, and #180 or #220 grit sandpaper for sanding raw wood
4. #320 grit sanpaper and fine 3M buffing pads for buffing in between coats of Top Coat
5. Soap and water for clean up

Surface Preparation

Pre-dampen the furniture with a wet cloth. Let dry thoroughly. To ensure surface are clean of oils and smooth enough for staining, sand all surfaces as follows:

Raw wood - start with #100 or #120 and finish with #180 or #220.

Unfinished Furniture - comes sanded from the factory but still needs to be sanded with a #180 or #220.

Remove all the dust by vacuuming or wiping with a clean cloth.

Note:

1. Do not use tack cloths which contain linseed oil which will affect the finish.
2. To fill nail holes with wood putty there are 2 methods:

• Fill holes before you stain using a putty that dries hard and can be sanded and stained
• Stain the wood, apply one Top Coat, then use a water based colored putty that matches the stain.

Helpful Staining Tips

• To get a consistent stain on soft woods, such as Aspen, use a Natural Stain as a pre-stain conditioner. Apply, wipe off evenly, wait 10 minutes to 24 hours, and apply your selected stain.
• Remove hardware from furniture.
• Stains may be intermixed to create custom colors or may be lightened by adding Natural Stain.
• A second coat of stain will produce a darker color. Apply no more than 2 coats of stain.
• Do not thin stains with water. Use a stain extender.
• Some stains may be sprayed. Reduce stain 10% to 15% (3 to 4 oz. per quart) using a stain extender.

Application of Stains

Note: Before you begin staining, test the color on the underside of the project.

1. Stir stain well. Stirring reduces the thickness of the stain to a thinner viscosity.
2. Apply with a foam brush, a cloth, or for a larger surface, a latex paint applicator. Apply a wet, liberal coat. It's essential to use liberal amounts of stain to insure easy workability. If too little stain is used, the surface can dry too quickly causing an uneven appearance.
3. Divide you project into manageable sections (top, side, drawer, door).
4. Stain a complete section and wipe off the excess evenly with the grain using a clean cloth. Check for missed spots and lap marks before moving to the next section. You have 10 to 30 minutes to correct a problem area.

Drying Times for Stains

Drying time is normally 2-4 hours under ideal conditions (70 degrees and 70% humidity). Cooler temperatures or higher humidity may extend the dry time to 8-10 hours. Good ventilation and air movement will greatly improve dry time.

Buffing Stains

Buffing stains prior to applying a Top Coat is optional. If you decide to buff, only us a fine 3M abrasive pad. Caution: heavy buffing may remove stain. Note: Do not use steelwool. Stell particles, left behind, will rust after the Top Coat is applied.

Application of Top Coats

Note: if you are applying a Top Coat over oil based stain instead of water based stain. allow the oil stain to dry a minimum of 48 hours under ideal drying conditions.

1. Stir container well to insure that all the ingredients are mixed together. Failure to do so may produce an inconsistent finish.
2. Make sure surface is clean and free of all grease and dirt.
3. Apply with a foam brush, a latex paint pad applicator, or by spraying.
4. Apply Top Coats liberally by using smooth even strokes going in the direction of the grain. Use enough material to provide a wet film. Do not over brush!
5. We recommend a minimum of 3 coats. Additional coats may be applied to increase durability and depth.

Drying Time of Top Coats

Drying time is normally 2-4 hours under ideal conditions (70 degrees and 70% humidity). Cooler temperatures or higher humidity may extend the dry time to 8-10 hours. Good ventilation and air movement will greatly improve dry time.

Buffing Top Coats

After the Top Coat has dried, sand with #320 or finer grit sandpaper or buff with a fine 3M abrasive pad. Remove dust with a clean cloth. It is important to buff in between each coat for the smoothest possible finish. Do not buff final coat. Note: Do not use steelwool. Steel particles, left behind, will rust after top coat is applied. Do not use a tack cloth which may contain linseed oil which will affect the finish.

Cure Time

It is important to let the final top coat cure for a period of 14 days to reach optimum hardness. You may use your project sooner, just treat it with special care during the curing period.

Helpful Top Coat Tips

• Do not pour top coat on to project. Dip the applicator into the can and then apply it to the wood.
• Do not "work" or "scrub" the top coats. Apply quickly and allow them to level out.
• Warming top coats by placing them in hot water makes them flow better for spraying.
• Do not thin top coats with water. use a top coat extender.
• Optional: After the final top coat has dried for 2 days, "rub out" your project by wet sanding with Satin Finishing wax. Wipe on a thin coat of Satin Finishing Wax and lightly sand with #600 or finer grit wet/dry sand paper or 3M fine abrasive pad. Wipe off excess and let dry for 5 minutes, then buff to a rich soft luster.

Cool Stuff Worth Knowing

• Both Stains and Top Coats are non-toxic after drying and are perfect for children's toys and furniture.
• Mix Gloss and Satin together to get a Semi-Gloss.
• Tinting may be accomplished by adding 10 to 20% Stain to a Top Coat.
• Top Coats may be recoated at any time in the future. Simply wipe down the surface with mineral spirits to remove any grease or dirt, lightly sand with #320 or finer, and then apply another coat.

Maintenance

Clean surface with a damp cloth. You may also use Orange or Lemon Oil as a polish/cleaner. Do not use household cleaners or window cleaners. We don't recommend using paste wax because pase wax builds up and yellows, thus becoming a maintenance problem.

• Tips before you start
• Supplies needed
• Important warnings and helpful staining tips

• Preparation
• Application of stain
• Application of Top Coat
• Dry Time and Cure Time

Tips Before You Start

• Spontaneous combustion in application rags is a very serious danger. Never leave application rags indoors. Dispose of rags by soaking in water and drying outdoors
• Test color on a hidden area to make sure that it is the color you desire.
• Both Stains and Top Coats are non-toxic after drying and therefore are ideal for kitchen and children's furniture.

Supplies Needed

• Clean rags and/or paper towels
• Foam brushes or paint pad applicators for big surfaces.
• Sandpaper: #120 (birch and maple woods), #150 or #180 for sanding raw wood, and #320 or finer sandpaper for bufing between Top Coats.
• Mineral Spirits or waterless cream hand cleaner for clean-up

Important Warnings and Helpful Staining Tips

1. Stir stains well before and during use.
2. Test color in a hidden area.
3. To get a more consistent stain on soft woods, such as Aspen, use Natural stain as a pre-stain conditioner. Apply Natural, wipe out evenly, wait 30 to 60 minutes, and apply your stain.
4. All stains may be intermixed to create custom colors or may be lightened by adding Natural stain.
5. Working in temperatures below 60 degrees will not harm finishing, but can substantially slow the dry time.

Preparation

1. Remove hardware, doors, and drawers from furniture. This is very helpful when two-toning.
2. To insure surfaces are clean of oils and smooth enough for staining, sand with the grain all surfaces with #180 or #220. Remove all the dust by vacuuming or wiping with a clean cloth. Sand close-grain hardwoods, such as Maple or Birch, with no finer than #120 paper. The courser paper will open up the hard surface to more easily accept stain.

Application of Stain

1. Wipe on stain with a clean cloth (old T-shirts work well), a foam brush, or paint pad applicator.
2. Using a clean cloth, evenly wipe off excess stain with the grain.
3. After the first coat has dried, a second coat of stain will give a darker and deeper color.
4. Do not sand the stain coat. Go directly to the first Top Coat.

Application of Top Coat

1. Apply Top Coat with a lint free clean cloth (old T-shirts work well), a foam brush, or paint pad applicator.
2. Apply Top Coat with the grain using smooth even strokes. For large surfaces, such as a table top, apply a wet liberal coat as quickly as possible and even out the surface using long smooth strokes with the grain.
3. Between coats, buff with #320 or finer sandpaper to produce a smooth finish. Although not as effective, a 3M buffing pad may be used.
4. A minimum of 3 Top Coats is recommended.

Dry Time and Cure Time

Stains and Top Coats can dry in 6-8 hours under ideal conditions (70 degrees and 70% humidity). Cooler temperatures or higher humidity may extend the dry time to 12-24 hours or longer. Good ventilation and air movement will greatly improve dry time.
It is important to let the final Top Coat cure for a period of 14 days to reach optimium hardness. You may use your project sooner, just treat it with special care during the curing period.